Oh, there are lots of things that can rightfully claim grandness. There’s a canyon, a few tetons, an ol’ opry, and a Cayman island. There are champions, finales, pianos and even a jury. Grand shows up in sports, albeit rarely. . . . for the bases must be loaded when the batter slams one. And, don’t forget the Prix and the Am, both worthy of the word. North Dakota has a Grand Forks, (one can only imagine the size of their eating utensils), Minnesota a Grand Marais (whatever a marais is) and Michigan a Grand Rapids. And, of course, parents are promoted to grandness by their children’s children.
In such company, it is a fitting name for the Grand Geneva Resort wherein lies a gem among restaurants, the Newport Grill. Even the approach to the Grand Geneva speaks volumes of grandeur as the road curves for nearly a mile slowly uphill, then down, seasonal decorations keeping company with the landscape and greeting each passerby.
The sun was setting over the wooded hills as we partook of a meal at the Newport Grill overlooking a landscape that could only be described as stunning. Rolling woods climb up and away toward the horizon while here at the table, enticing aromas and sizzling sounds waft from the general vicinity of the kitchen.
The Newport has an open concept; a team of chefs cooks over open flames in plain view of their patrons. And, what this does to your taste buds! A French friend once proclaimed to me: “First! We eat with our eyes. Then! We eat with our noses. At last! We eat with our mouths.” My French is sketchy at best, but I was able to interprete Guy’s gestures and exclamations to a T, filling in where his actual words were understood only vaguely. His enthusiasm –- famous among the French -- for the pleasurable pastime of the plate was contagious. So it is at the Newport Grill.
Such aromas! Such sizzling! Such cookery! Steaks with that crunch that can only come from direct flames. . . surrounding a cooked-to-perfection center. For a taste of both land and sea, try the Chesapeake Filet, Stuffed with Lump Crab. Or peek over the half-wall into Newport’s open kitchen to catch sight of sizzling skewered shrimp awaiting their next bath of basil butter, on their journey to your table. The Swordfish prefers its butter lemon’d and the Tuna Steak skips butter altogether in favor of a Soy Ginger Vinaigrette.
Mango. There’s something about this oddly peach-like fruit. When I open a menu, if there’s a mango aboard in any form, it leaps from the page and begs “Take me!” So, in spite of the expanse of mouthwatering selections, (which, of course, I read word-for-word. There’s no better pastime than perusal of a well-written menu.), when I saw that the Roasted Sea Bass was served with Mango Chutney, it just had to be. Sea Bass: a more buttery, delicate jewel has yet to come from the sea into the hands of expert chefs. The mango-chunked chutney hovered just on the edge of sweet, spiced by a touch of heat, complementing Mr. Bass like His Girl Friday.
Sweet Baby Ray takes to the stage at the Newport, too. . . ladled lovingly onto rotisserie’d chicken or painted generously onto Baby Back Pork Ribs. There’s no doubt as to why Mr. Ray is famous for his Sweet Baby Barbecue Sauce. . . it’s because he has found the secret to sweetness in sauces: not too much, but j-u-u-s-t right. Add Garlic Basil Whipped Potatoes, a Grilled Vegetable Brochette, and Newport’s Own Salad Dressed with Tarragon Honey Mustard and your repast passes all your rigorous standards.
Room for dessert? Oh my. Should it be flame-kissed creme brulee. . . as only the French could have invented? Or, perhaps an all-American statuesque strawberry shortcake, piled high, cream oozing from among its layers. . . Speaking of strawberries. . . how about a tart of the strawberry persuasion, presented so beautifully it’s almost a shame to consume it. First we eat with our eyes. . .Or perhaps, since it’s a grand evening at the Grand Geneva. . . a Grand Marnier would be a good choice to finish a grand meal.
You’ll find the Newport Grill at the Grand Geneva Resort just at the east edge of Lake Geneva off Highway 50. Have a grand time.
