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Culvers - Review

Trimmed in blue

Ahhh. . . There it is. Trimmed in blue. . . . As you enter Burlington from the northeast you’re greeted by the familiar blue oval that immediately conjures thoughts of really good food really fast. Let me rephrase: outstanding food, speedily prepared. For this is Culvers, home of the famous Butter Burger. Or is it the genuine creamy custard that’s responsible for the fame that Culvers so richly deserves? (Pun intended, of course.)

Friendly blue umbrellas line the sidewalk inviting you to enjoy a perfect summer lunch outdoors along bustling Milwaukee Avenue. Today happens to be Turtle day, according to the marquee (A sign that is duly noted by passers by on a daily basis, to be sure. In fact, there’s nothing unusual about receiving an important call on your cell phone: “It’s Turtle Day! Let’s do lunch.”). Not to be missed, of course, if you know that Turtle is the day you can partake of a yummy gooey mix of real caramel, pecans and chunks of chocolate suspended in creamy frozen custard. (Hmmm. Makes me want to postpone the rest of this narrative and go back for another. . . )

As a matter of fact, I got to see the legendary custard in the making as the guest of Managers Dawn Riemer and Larry Schertz. There I was, within inches of two literal frozen rivers – chocolate and vanilla – as they emerged from the huge Custard Machine (was it abnormal that I expected Willy Wonka to dance out of the back room?) and curl invitingly into large white containers – and me without a spoon in hand. Dawn takes enormous scoops of the sweet substance and mixes it with j-u-s-t the right amount of caramel, chocolate and pecans to produce the tempting flavor identified as simply Turtle. Minutes later, the freshly-made creation is nestled in a sundae dish, which in turn is nestled in my hand ready for consumption. Now I’ve got my spoon. Life is good.

Stop in any day and become acquainted with Turtle’s siblings, too. How can you resist names like Wholly Whoppers, Cookie Dough Craving, Just Drummy, Chocolate Volcano, Caramel Brickle and Candy Commotion? Well, I know Peach Crisp makes my turn my head. And Caramel Cashew can’t be passed by. . . . By the way, whose brilliance do we credit with marrying our favorite bars with our favorite dairy treat? Really Reeses, Snickers Swirl, M&M Swirl, Pay Day and Butterfinger are in good company with Nestle’s Swirl to keep confection-lovers coming back for more. What better way to enjoy a candy bar than swirled up in frozen sweetness?

The favorite? Dawn says Southeastern Wisconsin loves its berries. So, there are several: Blackberries and Cream, Raspberry Cordial and Very Berry.

Now that we’ve had dessert first, as all do all who know life is short, let me tell you about the noble Butter Burger. Mine was the Wisconsin, topped with generous oozings of melted Swiss cheese. And where they find those sweet-not-bitter-but-just right onions, is still a secret. Or maybe the magic is in the grilling. I caught cooks Harry Hengen and Shannon Riemer coaxing sweetness from that maligned vegetable on the grill in the kitchen. Make mine Wisconsin any day. . . And, did I mention that the sandwich was served up on grilled rye bread? On, Wisconsin!

Butter Burgers, of course, come in several other varieties: joined with bacon or mushrooms or tucked between thick slices of sourdough. . . and with one of the sizes being named Jumbo, you know you’ll never leave hungry.

Of course, good restaurants always come highly recommended and Culvers is no exception. Customer Sandy Remy made it clear that she is a regular at Culvers because “their food is always hot and fresh. The appearance and presentation are perfect. And the place is so clean and friendly.” Indeed, Dawn confirmed that nothing is made ahead in their establishment. Even the salads are made fresh when you order.

Speaking of salads, the Grilled Cashew Chicken is a must. If there is a handful of cashews in this dish, then the chef has unusually large hands, or cheats and uses two. . . . because every bite is full of cashew. If you’re a fan of crispy chicken, try the Chicken Parmesan in which our favorite fowl is crisply fried before hopping into the bowl with its mates. A generous sprinkle of parmesan completes the flavors. Yum.

When you go to Culvers, be sure to check on the daily soup, too. Oh yes, the old standbys Chicken Noodle and Vegetable Beef are frequently cooked up hot and fresh. But check out the Au Gratin Potato, the Stuffed Pepper or for the fan of spicier dishes, Chicken Gumbo.

You’ll find Culvers on the northeast end of Burlington on Milwaukee Avenue (Highway 36). Open seven days a week, the hours are 10:30 am (for the can’t-wait-for-lunch crowd to 10 pm (for the after-the-game-group). Look for the restaurant dressed in blue trim. You’ll definitely want to save room for dessert here . . . And, on your way out? Why not grab one of those yummy-looking cake-custard-concoctions for your home freezer. You just never know when the urge for something spectacular will hit!