There certainly is no mistaking the former function of the enormous white barn just outside of Waterford. Make no mistake, though, about its litany of present roles, heavy on that plural. It can happily accommodate parties of 40 to 300, casual to elegant, Sunday brunch for Grandma’s birthday, and cheering on the Packers on Monday night. The Barn, as it’s frequently called, even sports a drive-up window for those bad hair days when you opt for dinner at home.
Trying to typify the Cotton Exchange restaurant would be like jamming John Candy into a jockey outfit. Cows were once in the majority here in the barn’s lower level, though it’s difficult to imagine them now, mingling contentedly in the elegantly appointed Plantation Room. (Politely sipping cocktails might be difficult for a cow, don’t you think?) Instead find brides and guests of honor, service organizations and high school sports groups, art auctions and stand-up comedy beneath the enormous chandeliers, whose dual duties are met by shedding ambiance as well as light.
And, upstairs, nary a wisp of once-prevalent hay to be found. Enter instead a bright, airy main dining room where gigantic beams lend charm, as well as support. Or choose the Silo Room, where Joyce Garland’s expert hand at decorating lends an almost mystical atmosphere and emphasizes its perfect circle of cozy ambience. Bring to the Silo your friends and family for a shower, a birthday or a wedding dinner. And, don’t forget to look up through the glass ceiling to see the rest of the structure towering above. There’s no doubt that this really is a silo, whose previous life’s role was storing dinner for hungry livestock rather than hosting intimate dinners.
After over 100 years catering to cows, the Barn found its first restaurateur in 1996, then was reopened in December 2000 by the Foster family, also owners of the Cotton Exchange's twin sister, the Cotton Picker located not far from here. Today, rather than reigning over corn fields and crops of wheat and oats, the Barn bears witness to Waterford’s outward expansion, as new homes sprout up in its shadow and Friday night finds neighbor greeting neighbor at its wide, welcoming doors.
Manager Dan Prailes (say pry-less) easily navigates the confusing labyrinth of storerooms, offices and banquet rooms in the lower level of the Cotton Exchange. Dan and his wife, Kathy, have managed the Cotton Exchange for five years, implementing most of the restaurant’s innovations, such as the drive-through fish fry, stand-up comedy and Sunday Brunch. Providing one of the only large-gathering facilities in the area, Dan is passionate about hosting the annual Toy Run and sports banquets for local schools, as well as the Kiwanis Farm City gathering.
Two and a half kitchens keep orders moving briskly at the Barn. And what’s a half kitchen? This is where Icelandic Cod, Perch, Bluegill, Shrimp or Chicken Strips, are quickly and carefully prepared and served to hungry drive-by Friday-nighters, an ingenious plan if ever there was. Consider it the famed Wisconsin Fish Fry on wheels, a marriage of Wisconsin tradition and so-busy modern family. Dan’s brother and sister-in-law, Bob and Dina Prailes, manage the busy drive-up delivering meals through the drive-through on both Friday and Saturday evenings.
Of course, you’re welcome to partake of the camaraderie upstairs in the main dining room where the fare is far from typical. Ah yes, you can have the stand-by Fettuccine Alfredo, tossing in a generous helping of chicken or shrimp, if you like. But, your more adventurous side will doubtless win once you read resumes of such characters as Bayou Fettuccine, tossed with sauteed Andouille and hot pepper sauce tempered, of course, with that creamy Alfredo. Don’t stop there, though. Veal Scampi sports a coat of Vermouth Cream Sauce, not to be missed for pasta connoisseurs.
Passing on Pasta today? No worries, as your choices From the Waters run from the open sea to the frigid waters of a Northern trout stream. . . as you ponder the Grouper Prez dressed in hollandaise and sporting a garnish of Broiled Shrimp. And, somewhere over the Rainbow, there’s a Pan Fried Trout . . . trust the Cotton Exchange cooks with this one as they apply just the right touch of lemon caper sauce to keep this Rainbow’s delicate flavor from fading. Hold that thought, as the Steamed Atlantic Salmon sports its own subtle sauce of Lemon Dill. . . . and the Tilapia wears a creative crust of pecans. Only Tilapia with its well-known mild manner could pull off wearing pecans to dinner.
Ah, but don’t think the Barn forgot its fans of heartier cuisine! No, these Certified Angus Porterhouses, Ribeyes, New York Strips and Filet Mignons are broiled to perfection and served with the flair such fare deserves. Beef is fine, but, can you think of anything better than twin Pork Chops keeping company with warm Apple Slices? Or a slow-cooked Rack of Baby Back’s slathered with sauce? Let’s eat!
Nothing says fall like football, so Sunday afternoons and Monday evenings, accept a standing invitation from the Exchange, where all-American NFL meets authentic south-of-the-border. On the menu are mouth-watering Mexican dishes carrying monikers like Carne Ala Tampiquena – marinated ribeye smothered in veggies and provolone -- and Alambres, a bed of tortillas loaded with beef, chicken, bacon, veggies and provolone. Appetizers? You bet! Queso con Rajas, Poblanos Mozzarella Sticks with Molé Sauce or a plate of Chicken Quesadillas give you sustenance as you cheer on your team of choice.
Sunday’s leisurely pace is perfect for Brunch at the Barn, complete with Chef-carved Prime Rib and Ham, Tenderloin Tips, Fresh Fruit, Muffins and a myriad of delicious sides. Witness the wonder of your custom-cooked omelet taking shape, choose your potatoes and veggies from seeming acres of tables. And, don’t forget to linger over the delicacies lining up on the dessert table. Ah, Sunday. What could be better than a day designed for dawdling?
You’ll find the Cotton Exchange about a mile west of Waterford at the junction of Hwy’s 20 and 83. The phrase, “You can’t miss it” rises to new heights as you round the bend and come into view of an old barn with a new role in life!
